31 December 2010

Weliington

Ruby and I are on our way into town on the Airport Flyer. Free Wi Fi, fantastic. My sisters internet is kaput so our updates may be a little sporadic. Looking forward to the fireworks and Ruby is hoping for a midnight feast!! Back into the cafes tomorrow. Seeing Matthew soon. Missing the whanau already. The sun is shining and life is still good.

Last day of the year

I have been frantically orgaising accomodation for the last part of the journey. There have been those who have left their manners and kindness locked away and that has caused a few tears. I understand that it is a busy time of year and by no means am expecting something for nothing. However a simple 'no' would suffice, perhaps even 'no thankyou'.
Ruby and I are flying to meet the lovely Matthew in Wellington to continue the journey. He is travelling up by car and then Interisland Ferry as we speak. We have spoken and he is doing cafes on the way. This is great fun and hard work all rolled up together.
My big YAY!! goes out to Athol and Lorraine Potterill at Asure Macy's Motor Inn and Conference Centre. Not only because they are hosting us in Tauranga, but because of their enthusiam and positive energy. Just what I needed at this stage of the game. Thanks

30 December 2010

Niki Christmas Day

So we had our family Christmas day today too. Too much food, lots of babies and fantastic to catch up with those from far away. Mika and his Dad were here for the day and it was a bit sad to see them heading off into the sunset. We are planning on catching up on our way around.

Ruby has had fun playing with cousins, siblings and friends and is not so keen to get back to the life of a cafe kid. Not so much fun for her without kids to play with. We are going to have to crash other kid groups along the way!!
I am looking forward to being back with Matthew and am going to miss the whanau here. We are going to my sisters in Wellington for the first few days and are looking forward to tomorrows fireworks from the apartment balcony.
I have approached accomodation options in Hawkes Bay and Gisborne today and hopefully will have a place to lay our heads as we continue on our way.

30th December (our belated Xmas day)

Today I drove up to the Brick Mill Cafe and was amazed to see what can be done with a factory. Pottery, espresso, wool, and art exhibitions all go to show that a factory can have many uses. Good coffee and a nice mushroom bruschetta made along with good conversation made a good morning. The rest of the day is spent celebrating with family, our belated Xmas day, and one of those rare times when we can get everyone together at the same time.

Niki is doing the same in Auckland, a chance to get merry, test family dynamics, and share company, yippee......

29 December 2010

29th December





On the road again doing cafes, and today I visit two, with brother in tow. We go to the Dunsandel store and then onto Methven to find Primo Secundo. We can't go via Rakaia as the bridge is closed due to flooding. We go over the gorge and see how swollen the river is, see the photos.

Methven almost seems closed yet we find the cafe, it turns out to be a real gem and Marya is a hoot with a great sense of humour. We spend a lovely time there and get some great shots, Ben starts to enjoy being my assistant. We leave Methven feeling like we have made a new friend, and enjoy the drive back along the long, long, long straight roads that Canterbury is famous for...

27th and 28th December

A couple of days of pottering around, being with family sums up these days. I have started reading a book around perception, and funnily enough it is tied into psychology and how we perceive the world. Did you know that when we blink it is not just to moisten our eye but it is also when we complete a thought. Just watch someone who is really angry and focused on a single thought, they don't blink.

I have made friends with a earthquake shitzo cat called Crooked Tail. Her nerves are a bit frayed and doesn't respond well to loud noises. Yet I have managed to have her sleep on my bed, helps me get through the lonely nights while Niki is away. Funny thing having a partner that I am deeply in love with, I love having the time to myself and being able to do things when I feel like it, yet I really miss her and get lonely. I only have to survive until Friday night..

I have started using the video on the camera, got a proper mic for it, and realising that shooting video is a whole new ball game to shooting stills....

26 December 2010

Saturday 25th and Sunday 26th December

It’s the day after Xmas and it has been nice to catch up with my brother and his wife from Australia. Yet it also feels a little weird as only some of us are around for Xmas, and we don’t have the official family lunch, Niki and I are having these on the 30th, me in Christchurch and Niki in Auckland. We spent the afternoon at Hagley park, walking around and Ruby playing in the paddling pool. It was nice to see so many people having picnics and enjoying the sun. That night before Niki goes back for a few days we are treated to what Cantabrians have been experiencing for months, a short earthquake. It hits about 2 am and the first jolt wakes me up. The next three become a little disturbing, and by early afternoon on Boxing day I have experienced another two, one that almost knocked cups off the shelf. For those who haven’t been in an earthquake before, imagine there is a train inside your house, travelling at around 60 mph, rumbling loudly and shaking everything close to it. Well, if you take the sound of the actual train out of the equation then this is pretty much what it is like. I can even hear it rumble off into the distance. This is one event I don’t think a photo can capture.

Over the next few days I plan to do some much needed reading, hopefully the tremors will dissipate. I have a book on photography that I would love to get into; having taken over 5000 photos I feel some reflection on technique is due...

Friday the 24th of December



Here we are, yes we are not just faceless people writing a blog, and checkout the house in Waikuku.Today we drive to do a café in Waikuku only to find it had closed early. We decide to travel further and do one in Amberly. I am glad we do as Niki has an affinity with the owner, and we have a nice connection with her. The story of the café is wonderful and we spend a lovely couple of hours there. This is café experiencing at its best. The photos are great, the company is great, and all this with great food and coffee too.

On the way back we stop in a place where Ruby’s Marae is. Ruby and Niki go for a walk around it and I just enjoy being in a peaceful area that has a nice cosy slow feel to it.

We drop Ruby off to Jessica so her son and Ruby can go to mini golf. We check out another café but decide not to do it, the coffee was weak, and when we complained they smiled, but still charged us. I think I have had enough of cafes for a few days, I am looking forward to Xmas and having a few days to just be with family.



Thursday the 23rd December




Off to Lyttleton to explore cafes. When we arrive it is the most beautiful port town, with a wonderful eclectic feel to it. We drink coffee, Ruby makes things and the dynamic of three is working. After doing the café we explore a clothes shop, not quite sure how we ended up there. Niki loves a dress but we can’t afford it. I mean really, with seven Moa dresses does the girl need more? Of course the answer is yes, so it goes in layby. In the afternoon we take Ruby to Science alive and watch a young girl

Climb a rock wall, and slide down a vertical slide until she is completely worn out. We all sleep well that night.

Wednesday the 22nd of December

The three of us vist UTRV, yes you need to figure out what this means. Ruby makes a new friend in the cafe, bother the barista and her are wearing the same top, this makes them practically sisters. They get on like a hosue on fire and it isn't long before they are pcikign cherries outside together. Ruby gets a job helping around the cafe, and learns how to fold napkins, ending up with her first pay check...

We see the devastation that the earthquake has caused, it almost seems random, one place completely fine, the next with walls missing. Of course the randomness is more to do with how we build. I suspect you could tracke a route that the quake took, I wonder if this would make a good drawing. We see vacant lots, buildings surrounded by fences, the company renting fences is doign well. We hear of a green bedford van that is setting up at vacant lots and putting out tables, chairs and pentonque. One minute it is a vacant lot, the next a cool place selling coffee. Natural disasters are what bring us together, and gives us opportunity to be creative.

By the end of the day we have too many cafes left to look at and need to shorten the list. Christchurch as a wonderful cafe culture and we don't wont to miss it...

Tomorrow off to Lyttleton, we have heard good things about a cafe there.

Tuesday the 21st December


We are back into visiting cafes with a vengeance. We find C1, C4 and Udnerground. There is a real lively passion for roasting here and we sample some great coffee, and hear some great stories. Ruby starts collecting T-Shirts and by the end of the day, I no longer like coffee.

Here is an interesting photo, seems that Lego has a whole new market, filling in the gaps created by earthquake damage...

Monday 20th December

No cafes today, we are feeling a little sad, the boys go back today and Niki and I have really enjoyed having them for such a long time. I will miss Ethan, but I am glad he is going to see his mum, and a trip to New York as well.

A change is coming as we move into Xmas and a different dynamic. For the rest of the trip it will be three, so I wonder how this will be.

Cafes tomorrow, so lets see..


Yes a bit of poetry

Sunday the 19th December

The next day it is still bloody hot, but we are taking a day off. Niki, Mika and Ruby are staying in a Hotel, and Ethan and I are at mums. It feels a little weird as mum is now living with Desmond so the dynamic is different. Still I can see they are like little kids in love, and that's got to be good in your eighties. Today is a day to catch up with my sister before she goes to Auckland and take Ethan and Max to see the latest Harry Potter movie. We get lost trying to find it and end up being late and at the wrong cinema. Of course serendipity is with us and at this cinema it starts later so we are just in time.

The movie is the darkest yet, but we all enjoy it. Ethan and I have grown up with Harry, and I am impressed that the story has been able to go for so long in a series of movies, and still be a good story, can't wait for the finale next year.

Tomorrow we start cafes again...

Saturday the 18th December




Yes, finally Matthew is doing the blog, so no more complaining Mark. Today we leave Ohau and drive all the way to Christchurch, this will take us all day and the only cafe planned is one in Timaru. We leave about 10 and the drive is beautiful, the lakes the sky, the tussock, all seems surreal compared to Auckland. I love the way that the lakes have that almost turquoise blue colour, and the shimmer they get with the sunlight. I just have to stop and put my foot in the water and take a photo. It is one of those moments I will remember, Ethan and I by the lake edge and the calmness, everyone else is in the car. I photograph the water but don't think i have captured the essence of the experience.

We travel for hours and hit lupin territory, Niki starts talking dress photos, and we find a place to stop. After frantically trying to get them to look right, all while waiting for a break in the Northwester wind. We get some good shots, you decide...

A stop in Timary to do another cool cafe and finally we hit Chrsitchurch around 5pm, the temerature is 33 and I am looking forward to being anywhere but in the car.

17 December 2010

Friday 18th December

I am actually entering a blog on the day the date indicates. We woke up to an overcast sky and sandflies. You may think this would be depressing, but no. I could do without the sandflies but the weather made our only option for the day rest. We all needed it. We have spent the day getting up late, having breakfast made for us. The kids have watched TV and played games, walked a dog that I think actually walked them and made friends with Ashley and Jock. I have read books and caught up on this and Matthew has managed to edit the photos to date.
We will have to include this place as a cafe too not only as a place we stayed because the best coffee we have had for a while came to us at the hands of Jock. Not only that but they have an addition that I would not usually recommend. A mysterious friend created the Love Source which is a spicy syrup. It was added to my coffee and although a purist I enjoyed it greatly. Watch this space.

Thursday 17th December

Big day ahead today. I wanted to visit the homes of my grandparents and we had to get to Lake Ohau in time for dinner with a number of cafes on the way. We had packed up most things the night before and were planning on an early departure. Wrong. Mika had made me a lovely necklace at school and it is my favourite piece of jewellery ever. I had to take it off at the chocolate factory and I thought I had put it in my bag but was unable to find it. So most of the time before 10 was spent looking and ringing every place we had been since I took it off. Not a happy girl. Where did I find it? In the bag that had been looked in three times which is where I had remembered putting it in the first place. Not a great start to the day.
Off we went to Waimea Ave to see my maternal grandparents home that I remember well. It looked exactly the same apart from not being quite as manicured as they kept it. Great memories. The whanau dutifully looked and listened and were thrilled when I said we were off for more remembering in Port Chalmers. I found the house where my Dad was raised and the pensioner flats that my Nana lived in until she died.
We had to do a Port Cafe and luckily there was a good one in the Port Royale. Sharon owns it with her partner and we had some great food and coffee while discussing things bi-cultural. Who would have guessed that conversation would eventuate there. Matthew was most amused as it seems I can have that conversation everywhere.
Time to leave the memories or so I thought and we made our way north. Up to Oamaru where I happened to be born and through to the Cuisene Restaurant of the year, Riverstone Kitchen. It took a while to commit to covering this place as to distinguish between cafe and restaurant is important. Our measure is can you walk in and get a coffee and something to eat that is not neccessarily a meal, yes you can. So we did and it was beautiful, slick and beautiful. We didn't eat much even though it was lunch time as feeding the whanau here would be a little too pricey. So we caried on and very hungry landed at the Duntroon Hotel. We had burgers and played pool. My mum and dad had moved here when they first married and with dad away at work all day I am surprised my Mum survived, pretty bleak. On through Kurow where my sister was born, Otemetata where my brother was born and I had covered this generations birthplaces in a matter of hours.
This was turning out to be a very long day and we were looking forward to making it to Lake Ohau Ski Lodge. I was driving and keeping my eyes open for a cafe called Kahu that my friend Mick had recommended. It is at the gliding centre in Omarama and on arrival the stress of the day just disappeared. Under a covered deck were coloured paper lanterns, comfy couches, cool drinks and a welcome. Lana played go fish with Ruby and there was much giggling. I loved watching my girl have such fun. Matthew got some great shots and we were happy to just be. Time moved on and I realised the lodge may be waiting for us for dinner. Lucky I rang as dinner is at 7. We made it just in time.
More memories as I drove the fantastic road in to the Ohau Ski Lodge as I had been driven so many times before with Contiki. Best rollacoaster road I've ever been on.
We were greeted by Jock who would have been 13 or so when I last saw him. He has the same flair for hospitality as his mum and dad Louise and Mike, and we all felt right at home. The dinner was sublime and made all the better for not having to do dishes or cook it ourselves. After travelling hard out for so long it has been great to have a base that feels a little like home. I set to washing and ironing the lovely Moa dresses for the photoshoot then into a bed I may have slept in before for a good nights sleep.

Wednesday 15th December

I don't know where the time is going. I think I'm only a day behind in the blog and then find myself doing wednesday on friday. Okay not so far behind but alot happens in a day.
We got up on wednesday and started the 'major coverage of large city in one day mission'. We had done our research and made a plan so we were feeling okay about the prospect.
Chuckys Coffeehouse was our first stop. Chucky is about 15m from the Octagon and he makes coffee in his hallway. I arrived and went in for a look without the whanau to just check it out before announcing ourselves. As I was waiting a couple of obvious regulars started to chat about the car that was up the road on The Search for The Great New Zealand Cafe. They were telling Chucky to give away free food if the person came in and that they should go and recommend on his behalf. It was strange being talked about without them knowing I was that person. When they left I announced myself to Chucky and we had a giggle. This guy has the lifestyle down pat with the coffee gig from when he gets there til 2ish, acting, music, surfing etc. A good and relaxed start to the day. He confirmed we should go to Strictly Coffee Company. Interestingly Chucky had been fired from there and yet they are still on good terms.
Strictly was great. Prudence the manager was welcoming and Duncan the owner confirmed that attitudinal (sp) staff were not allowed through the door. We had a good chat and the kids enjoyed playing hangman on the whiteboard in the bored room.
Next stop Cadburys Chocolate Factory and indulgence was had by all. Well stocked up on departure it was off to the salt water swimming pool for Matthew, Ethan and Ruby while Mika and I went to Starfish Cafe in St Clair, the last cafe for the day. Matthew joined us to take the photos and the days mission was over. We went back to the camp and Matthew bbq'd for all. It was a long day and bed was welcome at the end of it.

15 December 2010

Tuesday 14th December

Matthew was up early to take shots in good weather with good light. He got a couple of gems. We packed up at Pounawea. The night before I had been for a walk around the village while the kids played in the park. I went past the christian camp that my mum had been to when she was nineteen. I feel like I am walking in footsteps as we travel this part of New Zealand. There are so many places and stories that have come down from my parents and times that I remember. They often surprise me as I see a scene I have seen before but forgot existed.
On leaving the campground having dispelled the rumour of strangeness we went back to the Catlins cafe to check the email and have a morning coffee. I spent some time trying to organise some accomodation in Dunedin with no luck and the kids went to the local library to kill some time while they waited for me.
We went to pick them up and once were inside found it hard to leave. This is a town of 300 and they have created a beautiful library and museum that would put many a big town to shame. There was amazing jewllery for sale and they kindly sent us through the museum for free. The boys really enjoyed their first museum time for the trip and Ruby really enjoyed having free reading time in the kids section. This place is a find and if you ever get a chance and are in the area make a point of going in. I was well impressed.
The interesting about this place is that it seems like there is a very small number of people covering a number of bases. I saw one woman working in the library, at the campground and then saw her again at the cafe. Now I don't know if she was working in all of those places but she was comfortable being behind the scenes in all.
On to Dunedin. Most disappointed to have missed staying at Billy Browns in Port Chalmers, it took the shine off for me to be at a pretty average Holiday Park. Any way we made the best of it after checking out the Octagon and it's cafes we settled in for the night.

Monday 13th December

We planned to have a quiet day today but it didn't quite work out that way. We went into the Catlins Cafe in Owaka (completely mispronounced by all) and were well looked after by Aileen and Steve. Before they knew who we were they had given us free internet and great service.
Matthew took the kids to see a mechanical genius and his unusual bus full of machines while I stayed at the cafe and blogged for two hours to catch up for the days that had gone before. I then did all the interview stuff for the cafe just in time for the family to come back and Down to Surat beach and a big walk past a very fat sea lion with the weather closing in. We didn't quite make it back before the downpour so it was a soggy bunch back in the car to the camping ground.
Dinner and a movie in the shared area before bed. Night, night

13 December 2010

Sunday 12th December

I have given up tracking the days as they all just keep coming. We are on day going to the Catlins today. I forgot to tell you about the Sticky Beak cafe that is Heathers home in Otarata. We had heard whispers and driven by to find that it is open from 2-430 on Sundays only. I like a woman who gets the work life balance sorted!
Matthew and Ethan went to check it out on Saturday evening in order to get photos as we were not going to be in the area in the afternoon. As it happens they took the wrong road and went to Bluff. On their way back a woman waved them past as they were fast and she was not. Matthew found Sticky Beak and was out of the car to take photos when that same woman rocked up and guess what, yes it was Heather. They got the tour and photos that they would have missed had they not got lost. Yay.
Today we left Invercargill...got 10kms out of town and turned around to get fuel..whoops. On the road again and we ricocheted (sp) between Edendale and Wyndam trying to decide which cafe to do. Matthew was convinced we needed to do Lee's Dairy and Cafe in Wyndam and he wa s right. Where else apart from rural NZ can you get videos, groceries, takeaways and a cappucino. Yes the coffee was not the hightlight but as a whole experience we were thrilled. The Lee's are local and had a story to tell. The kids loved the food and we missed the Bert Munro street race by a week. All good.
On to Niagara Falls cafe. In an old school house with animals for Ruby and wireless for them all. The place is on the market if you are keen and it is a great spot.
We made our way to Curio Bay to see the petrified forest which wasn't that visible and then saw a yellow eyed penguin, that was. Really cool and the seaweed was beautiful too. Around the corner we spotted some Hectors dolphins in the bay and although the day was turning out to be a long one, it was worth it.
An hour on and we were in Owaka 4 Square getting supplies as we didn't know what we would be able to get in Pounawea where we were staying in the campground. Managed that and then into a magical area.
On arrival at the campground we were given the once over by Judy. They had had some strange phonecalls and were suspicious that we were a scam and not actually writing a book etc. It was very funny and she said that if we got strange looks while we were in the area it was down to her and sorry. We did our best impression of normal and made dinner in the shared kitchen. Pounawea Campground is awesome and we went for a walk on the beach after dinner while Matthew drove off to explore the area. The kids and I had fun with the crabs, it was one of those really precious moments.
Matthew returned to find us all gone and he went for a bush walk before we all caught up. Then at 8.00pm we made our way to Jacks Bay to see the Blowhole. One big walk later we found it and it wasn't blowing. But the walk back was restful and fun. I checked out the cribs right down by the water and Matthew and I fantisised about a writers retreat for two while the kids dug in the sand and made dams. A good day.

Saturday 11th December

We know we had a number of cafes to cover in our time here so it was up early for Mika and I to survey the land and the Three Bean Cafe for a takeaway coffee. I was hoping it would be terrible so as to free up the day but it was not to be. Donna was the perfect host from behind the counter and I knew that this was a place the locals would return to for the interchange and that we would have to also. But not yet...back to get the rest of the crew and we headed for Mrs Clarkes in Riverton.
Set on the main st of Riverton in what has been a bakery for a long time. When Cazan and Pat found the place 3yrs ago it was empty. they have worked 7days a week almost constantly since then to turn it into the gem it is today. The baking is to die for and Cazan is obviously well loved in the community. She is a talker...and seems to be a woman of integrity and community too. I never even laid eyes on Pat but believe he was in the kitchen creating the fabulous fare. These two personify hard work and how it can create fantastic. This place is quality, atmosphere and personality and we heartily enjoyed our time. More of those fantastic southland people!
Back to the Motel to download photos as we had run out of space. I think it was due to the christmas decorated homes and scenery. Anyhow before we continued we needed some recharging.
Donna and Gareth are from opposite ends of the country. She hails from Auckland and he comes from a line of fishermen on Stewart Island. They both ended up there for many years and then decided to create a bit of fabulous in Invercargill. Neither had experience in cafes but the four girls who came with the cafe gently introduced them to the business and have stayed on. Gareth started doing dishes in his gumbies and has graduated to chief in charge of the espresso machine and he does a great job. Again the food was great and the heart of the owners shined through. Sent on our way with the days leftovers, Donna off to organise the staff xmas do and our kids desperate for a swim we went to splash palace. We had alot of fun and then home for a roast. At the Monarch Motel you get a real oven in your unit not just hotplates and it was a treat.

Friday 10th December

A sad morning on two fronts today. We were leaving friends in Queenstown and having become very settled over the week it was hard to let go. The other sad thing is that the Mills cat Mia who has been very sick for a time died a couple of hours before we were due to go. Ruby was the one to deliver the news to me through big tears. We had been packing up and knew that her time was coming and yet it was still a surprise on some level. A great experience for the kids. They all went and picked flowers to surround her with and patted and talked as she lay in the lounge. The first death they will remember and although it is sad for those who loved her over a long period of time, to see death as the part of life it is, makes for growth and understanding for all.

After grateful and tough goodbyes we were back in the Honda for a long day on the road. Friends thought we were mad going via Roxborough to Invercargill. But, I have childhood memories of picking cherries till I popped and I wanted it for them too. Luckily we had been recommended to go and see The Packhouse Cafe which is just before Roxborough and we had a legitimate reason for our round about route.

After popping in to Cromwell and Clyde and finding pretty but not particularly good cafes we kept on going to our cherry destination. On arriving at the Packhouse we instantly knew we were in the right place. Kerry and Richard Groters aquired the place five years ago having come from a stint in Queenstown. They swapped their 3bdrm unit for a 4bdrm house, 20 acres and the packhouse. Not a bad deal I say.
The kids made themselves at home playing minigolf, jumping on the big pillow and eating pizza (thanks Kerry). The food was great as was the coffee and the hospitality was what you might expect from the south and was the beginning of a great people experience.
I was disappointed as the cherry picking looked to be off the agenda, all the orchards were not quite ready, another week I am told. Luckily for us Richard is a friendly type and he happily took us up to his orchard and the kids got to eat cherries from the tree. They are converted and are now trying to work out how they can be adventure tourists with a cherry orchard.

On to Invercargill with me in the drivers seat. It was nice as the whanau dozed to check out the towns I had spent time in as a child and the scenery of the south.

On arriving in Invercargill we checked into our Motel. The Monarch motel in Tay St. The owners were fantastic and friendly and gave us a unit with much room so we could spread out. The kids were keen on the in house spa but I had to do some work so Matthew took them all out for dinner so they could choose their takeaway of choice. Very happy campers.































































11 December 2010

Little update

Just so you know I will keep up but my typing hands are done for the day. See you later.

Thursday 9th December - BUNGY DAY

In my former life and many moons ago I worked for AJ Hackett checking in people at the Kawarau Bridge and so when we were planning this trip I was keen to get all those who could jumping.
Ruby was as keen as mustard and was three years and five kilos short of being allowed to jump. Matthew believed that there was an upper age limit that he was definitly over. No amount of evidence to the contrary convinced him. I have jumped many a time and packed my leggings to go under the Moa dress should I be called upon to tandam with a nervous 12 yr old. The brave and willing amoung us were those 12 yr olds. Mika and Ethan are the Bungy Boys!!!
We arrived at the bridge at around 10.45 and man has it changed since I was last there..very flash. The process has stayed the same with the first task being a weigh in and the dreaded red ink on the hand with the weight of the day. The boys were not phased by that part of the process in the way that others of us may have been. The confident discussion as to who was going first with both wanting the honour shifted to a more gentle and tentative handing over of first place the closer the moment came. Tickets in hand we all made our way onto the bridge and waited for a few minutes for the crew to join us. The boys were a little grey by now but determined with it.
Ethan was first up and he handled the teasing of the crew and managed a perfect dive only just missing the water. Mika next and yet again a great dive with not a moments hesitation, he too didn't touch the water but that was not an issue as the two smiling adrenalin fueled boys were still flying.
Topping it off we were given the photos and dvd at no charge. A better experience we could not have had.
As the Glenorchy Cafe owner was not on site yesterday and we hadn't tried their coffee went back out for lunch. Grant is a man on the move and there was no problem keeping the conversation alive. Originally from Oz he lived, skied and worked as a chef in Austria for a number of years. The road to Glenorchy was an interesting one. I like that he was a digger driver fixing a problem at the cafe when it became a possiblity to take over and run the place. He did and has not looked back. Nor did we, the food was great the coffee was great and we went away happy campers.
Last night in Queenstown and we had Pizza at home and caught up with a good friend. Bad news we have to leave in the morrow, good news we are on to new places and had a great time with precious friends. Today the boys were brave, we were proud and life is good.

Wednesday 8th December

Today was magic! Thanks to Mick and our literary projects we went funyaking on the Dart river. I have done this twice before. Once with Ms Reid who reminded me of our hysterical adventure some 15 yrs plus ago. Once with Trudi and Mika when he was four. This is one of my favourite excursions in the Queenstown area.
Firstly we were up early to drive up to Glenorchy to start the day. Glenorchy feels connected to me or I to it. My parents eloped to Glenorchy on the Earnslaw when my mum was seventeen. They got cold feet and went home an unmarried pair but they returned for their honeymoon four years later. I think that gives me a little claim of historical belonging.
Anyway we got to Glenorchy early due to my intense discomfort with being late. So early that the Glenorchy cafe was not yet open. We had many reccomendations for this cafe and had hoped to get our pre-event coffee and do a little work in the process. As it happened I just about scared Lubbi (sp) out of her skin by banging on the kitchen window to have a chat. We agreed to catch up post event and the adventure began.
Checked in with Dart River Safaris and having had our wetsuit donning lessons we awayed to do just that. Not a forgiving attire the wetsuit. It manages to accentuate the negative and obliterate and sign of positive. Add jacket and lifejacket to the mix and all present, large or small, managed to look like giant marshmallows...some larger than others.
It was a chilly morning and although we felt cooked on our way to the jetboat, we were pleased to be so well wrapped once we were on the river. The landscape in this area is always breathtaking and moreso when veiwing it was interspersed with 360's in the boat. The kids were soaked and giggling much of the time in the jetboat. The only bad moment in the whole day was when Ruby's hat went flying off her head, never to be seen again.
After just the right amount of time with a cold wind in my face we swapped into the fun yaks. Thank goodness for the longdrop as the whole day would have been too much to handle without them being discretely tucked around the odd corner.
Ruby went with Corrin (sp) one of the guides who taught her not great paddling skills but honed her splashing skills until she was the best wetter on the river. We had the boys with their respective parents and the Grennell/Craggs team had much natural talent that seemed lacking in the flying Hawkes. The river is not of the white water variety and we were well able to handle ourselves as our skill increased with time on the water.
After a beautiful canyon paddle Mika went for yet another swim in yet more very cold water. The guides provided a great lunch and there was much joy in bare feet on soft mossy ground to be had by all. Cleaned up and it was back to it. The wind had picked up and so the fun yaks were clipped together in order to avoid tipping out. We had our family and a father and daughter from Canada together with Corrin to keep us on track. Our boys had the left side and the Canadians the right, Corrin was in control and for a time Matthew and I just lay back and watched the beautiful world go by.
Mika and Ethan took great pleasure in changing the direction they were facing to confuse Corrin as he was giving orders. Ruby was fixated on splashing the Canadian daughter and I think we were pushed along by the giggling wind more than the paddles.
After much fun and a full on water fight the day on the river came to an end.
By the time we got back to Glenorchy the cafe was closed to the public. As promised the girls had waited to talk to us and they gave us a very nice piece of Rocky road to keep us going til our return home.
Fish 'n' Chips on the beach in Queenstown and then back home before I was out again to spend some time with Mick. This was a big day!!

Tuesday 7th December

Slow start this morning. What to do...out to Glenorchy to do the cafe there or off to the farm show with the kids. We decided to do both. As we made our way past the Fernhill turn off we took a quick glance at the fancy petrol guage in the fabulous Honda Odyssy and realised that we didn't have enough petrol to get there and back. I couldn't remember if Glenorchy had a petrol station and so started to call friends to find out. My signal went around Moke lake and so no wiser we headed back to Queenstown rather than risk getting stuck in Paradise. Should you ever find yourself in this position, the petrol in Glenorchy is flowing! No need to turn back, now you know.
But we did and as it happens the descision served us well. We parked in town, or more precisely just out of the main drag as the meters only give you two hours. (I am a fountain of motoring info today). Off to the Earnslaw it was, just in time for the twelve o'clock sailing. We checked in with the lovely Ms MacLaren and then, coal doing its magic, we steamed over the lake to a great farmshow. There were pikelets and scones in quantities that will maintain the curves we have been cultivating on our travels. Kids had a blast and I managed to get a photo of Mika and Ruby in the same place we had been with our friend Trudi when we last visited eight years ago.
Back into to Queenstown with singing on the way and we were all dozy after our chugg home. The boys decided to stay at home while Ruby went with her new friend Nina to the swimming pool and then back to her place to play. Matthew was on dinner tonight and a treat of chicken and rice it was. It seems every night we are falling into bed exhausted. I think making plans for 2011 while in the throws of this project is a bit of an ask yet nothing in comparison to the year that has been. Live in the moment and plan for the future is the current mantra...it seems to work.

Monday 6th December

You may notice by the date that I am a little behind with the blogging. We were with the Mills and I was having too much fun and doing too much work to keep up. So on Monday we made it to our first couple of cafes. The friends and whanau had given us their recommendations to add to the ones we already had, at one point I began to melt as the ideas were coming too thick and fast for my brain to compute. Anyway after an executive dyad discussion (me and Matthew) we decided to go to Provisions in Arrowtown as our first mission.
What a treat. Dianne and I shared a psychology/psychotherapy moment as she told me the story of how she and Pauline started with making use of the local fruit in the Cromwell area to make preserves, jams, chutneys etc. They moved on to initiating the Cromwell Farmers Market before they took the opportunity to be in one of the original cottages in Arrowtown to create what is now Provisions cafe. Busy women who have made a valuable addition to Arrowtown and have fast become a local favourite destination. The much talked about Obscenely good sticky buns have a solid following that harks back to the days in the farmers market. Yes they are good and no we were unable to prise out the recipe from those present, although I believe I may have cracked it, I won't tell.
Having been slack with the cafes for a couple of days it was on to another. Vesta is located in the oldest surviving Queenstown original cottage. Kim has owned the place for five years and is it design, cafe, fashion and garden melded into a very appealing package. Kim is great and appealing in her honesty and welcome. It is nice to meet someone who is upfront with vulnerability and obviously strong as well, I like. The garden is a highlight with a glasshouse positioned to veiw over the lake with opportunity to sit inside out of the weather should you so desire.
The kids managed to play on the beach while we did the work, today was not a highlight for fun, but the job is facilitating the trip and so it is appropriatly swings and roundabouts. They got to play with Gabs and Harrison when we returned home.
I cooked dinner for the combined families while Matthew made yet another visit, this time to the Smoko Run. Innovative idea by some locals who started the famous Joes Garage then moved on to Motogrill before this latest venture. A container adjacent to Placemakers that has blokes in mind, has been converted into a 'cafe' of sorts with some kick butt coffee. Matthew has the notes and names so I will get on to that when he returns from his latest mission.
A day filled with work, tomorrow some recreation.

6 December 2010

Sunday 5th December - Day ?

We awoke knowing that we had to get back into gear with the Search for the Great New Zealand Cafe and also that catching up with friends and taking some time was also required. Creative thinking later, we managed to do both.
A number descended on the Mills family Cafe (Andy and Kirsty's) for brunch. Julias eggs, Micks bacon, Andys pancakes and general helpfulness by all. Best cafe we have been to yet. There were kids by the dozen and we were able to fine tune and add to the list of cafes to visit in the south by grilling the locals. All needs fulfilled. For a time my eyes were crossing as I could see my carefully designed plans disappearing with every new cafe suggeste. I especially liked the directions to one cafe that is north of Oamaru and south of Timaru, described as ugly but funky and run by 'Red'. Still don't know the name but am sure to find it.
The kids and adults mulled the afternoon away interspersed with an Elderflower collecting mission and de-honeying the Mills hive. The elderflowers are currently steeping to make cordial and there is not a surface in the kitchen that did not come into contact with honey as it was being seperated from its wax. Kirsty looks mighty fine in her bee keeping outfit.
After two very late nights it was an early bbq and early night for all. Back into work proper tomorrow.

Saturday 4th December - Day 18

Great to be back in my other home, Queenstown. I have know the people here for over twenty years or so and there is nothing like not having to explain.
After 17 days together in close quarters both Matthew and I needed some time without the lovely short people (yes I know Ethan is taller than me). So Matthew headed out with Andy to do menly manly things at placemakers and in the process had a look at a cafe in a container called Smoko Run. I am yet to see it but the owner has a long and successful history in the cafe business so it is sure to be good. By the time they got back I was a little stir crazy and Matthew took the kids to the pool while Andy took me to Provisions in Arrowtown for coffee. I notice a theme to the one often at the Cafe...Andy. Fantastic food, location, service, coffee, the lot.
We were joined by a few friends for an impromptu catch up and slowly the gritted teeth relaxed and I felt a belonging that I don't feel in any other place in New Zealand. The problem is now, yet again, I want to come back and life conspires to keep me away. I feel many a conversation coming on.
Today was the day for the annual old friend christmas get together and completely unplanned I was lucky enough to go. Every one is older and wiser and much better looking than we were all those years ago. The drinking was no longer a main feature and it was more about whose child is doing what and how life has moved on. Much fun...much later than I am now used to and I was well and truely ready for bed on arrival home. Matthew had kindly offered to be babysitter to the masses and I believe he was pleased to pass on the mantle as we returned. No work today, nice.

Friday 3rd December - Day 17

The plan had been to stay for two nights in Franz but once we had seen the glacier, with no cafes to do, we decided to move on. Ruby and I were up before the rest and into town for an early morning coffee and juice...more girly time...then the great packing machine and on the road for the longest day yet.
Surprising as it may seem the coast was cloudy and drizzly. I had seen a cafe at Lake Matheson in my research and we thought we would check out a bit of slick style to balance out the character cafes we had visited to date. The Lake Matheson Cafe is purpose built and architecturally designed, it caters to international and national travellers and is probably the most touristy cafe we have visited so far. That said it is in a fantastic location and the coffee was good, the food also. Part of NZ cafe culture is the tourist destination as tourism is one of our major earners and employers.
We had realised that the day was going to be a long one as we were going the distance to Queenstown. It became longer and longer as the photo stops increased in direct relationship to the beauty around. This stretch of road is probably my favourite in the whole of New Zealand. If the sandflies could be brought to heel, between Haast township and Haast Pass would be my home of choice.
Memories of the Contiki days surfaced as we were going through Makarora and as the petrol gauge was nearing empty we stopped at one of the only independent stations in New Zealand. It also happened to be a cafe, bar, souvenir shop and camping ground. With all of those things attached to a cafe in the middle of nowhere we had no choice but to do it for the book. Don't expect lavish fare, but solid good country food is present, along with a friendly face and number plates from around the world.
Thank goodness for good friends. We got a call from Andy who had willingly offered us queenstown accomodation. He let us know that there was a chicken in the oven and we could babysit as he and the lovely Kirsty were out for the evening. We arrived to family chaos like our own and immediatly felt right at home. Ruby and Gabs talked late into the night after abandoning a tent mission for the bedroom. Mika was finally able to sleep in the car after much nagging and Ethan decided to leave the tent for a less windy night. Matthew and I ended up in the gorgeous above garage loft that Kirsty and Andy have made into a haven and all was well in the world.

Thursday 2nd December - Day ?

So after a fantastic time in The New River Bluegum B&B it was time to head down the coast. We stopped in at the Bushmans Centre in Pukekura and that is an experience to have. Pete and Justine were off in their helecopter to the memorial service and the place was in the very capable hands of Katie, Justines daughter. She proudly told me they run the whole town just the three of them. Including the pub.
The centre is a cafe that doesn't serve espresso because with the three of them and buses coming through it is impossible to manage that kind of coffee making. I get the impression that if you pressed the point you may end up with a short sharp shift. The possum pies were free as long as you donated to the anti 1080 cause by $4.00 (it is illegal to comercially sell possum). The museum was a treat and I was well and truely got by the kids and the hard to see possum.
We made it into Franz Josef just after one and went up to the Glacier for a look. We took a short walk and then back to the Top Ten Holiday park for a spa and to settle in. Thanks for having us!
The boys wanted to go swimming in the coldest water in New Zealand and so with Matthew went back to the Glacier while Ruby and I chilled out and then went to the Pub for dinner.
Girly time out was just what was in order. After spending alot of time trying to explain to Ruby that the Pokies were not in fact great kids games and she could not play, we had a great meal and back home to bed. The boys returned later with takeaways and another day is done.

2 December 2010

Wednesday 1st December - Day 15

Again a short blog today. We don't have easy access to the net. It was a big day today. The biggest yet as far as travelling goes. We went from Motueka to Greymouth. After packing up early and assigning seats we drove through the very pretty Motueka Valley, back through Murchison and down the coast. We had intended to stop at the Charleston pub for lunch and discovered it was long closed and on the market. So we made ourselves comfy in the carpark to have a picnic. A very nice man from the local rafting company pointed us down to the beach where we found loos, picnic tables and a great walk to clear out the car cobwebs. The boys went right around the point and the waves were big, great fun.
After that we went on with a little trepidation to Greymouth. I wasn't sure if it was appropriate to be there doing cafes on the eve of the memorial for the lost miners. We ended up at DP one cafe and were welcomed by Sarah who runs the place for her mum Alison. On walking in I wondered what we had struck until I got past the counter and into a very funky and relaxed area of couches, old radios and much to the kids amazement an old fridge with completely iced up freezer box. they hadn't seen one of those before. The coffee was great and the relaxed intention is definitley fulfilled. Kids made a friend and ended up playing ball on the footpath and we had a fantastic coffee. This place is not slick and I say that as a compliment. Carvings are for sale at the counter and artwork around the walls. The cafe does not charge commision for sales, they are just promoting local artists who are more than likely friends who are now family. It has that kind of vibe where if you are included you are family.
After a chat and doing the photos we decided it was time to check out the B&B where we were staying. The New River Bluegum B&B run by Sharon and her husband whose name escapes me in the moment. harry is their 5yr old and he is a part of the working team.
The place is gorgeous and we were very well looked after. It was a shame we missed the outdoor bath being finished but if you go there it will be. Mika and Ruby played tennis and then they all went for a walk to the river and to see the horses while I read a book for the first time out. I woke up to their return thinking it was morning, whoops.
A lovely nights sleep and fantastic cooked brekky delivered the next day topped off our time here and now all are into the B&B concept wondering when we will get to the next one.

1 December 2010

30 November 2010

More photos

Tuesday 30th November - Day 14

It will be a quick blog tonight as I am almost out of internet usage at the place we are staying. We went into Tasmans best cafe today. Jester House is another gem and is located between Nelson and Motueka. The kids got to play with and feed the tame eels, then play in the very cool playground and explore in what is like a fairy grotto.
We had a great coffee and snacks including lavender shortbread for which we obtained the recipe for the book. Yay! Judy and Steve Richards own the place and have been in this location for 19 years. Over the years it has evolved into a sustainable, unique and peaceful place to enjoy great food and coffee.
Back to the Top 10 for lunch and the kids swum for ages in the pool. We then headed off to the source of the river whose name escapes me in this moment but I will let you know. The boys went in and we have some great shots of them freezing and enjoying every moment jumping into the crystal clear water.
Back to the beach for a swim and then on to the Holiday park for dinner and packing up to leave early tomorrow. We are heading to Greymouth. We wondered if it was appropriate to go on the eve of the memorial and have been assured by the locals that it is good to have something positive going on too.
Will finish now in the hope that I manage to post.

29 November 2010

Monday 29th November - Day 13

Had the best nights sleep in a very comfy bed. Matthew was lying in bed planning how to fit in all the cafes and how to have a majorly productive day. We decided to just cruise the morning with more washing and a good breakfast together, making the most of having three nights in one place.
Post brekky we all headed out to the pool. Ruby managed to do strokes and breath, most impressive. We then had mixed shoulder ride wars with Ruby and Mum wiping the floor with the others (yeah right). Lots of laughter and fun was had by all.
Chores complete it was time to get back on the cafe mission. After taking photos of the oversize crabs, we went through Mapua on our way to Nelson and tried for a cheap lunch at the bakery. Not cheap, not great, never mind.
We had heard great things about Lambretta cafe and every word was true. We met the focussed and fast talking Rhys and his partner, who was a little more chilled, Leanne. The food was fantastic, the scooters and themed surrounds popped, the kids area kept Ruby happy for a long time and it has been voted by the family as the best cafe we have been to so far. Service is top of mind and Rhys and Leanne have managed to create lifestyle for themselves and experience for the punter that is to be admired.
We took the long way home trying to find another cafe we had been told about. We found it and it was closed, as was the car door on Rubys fingers. Not too bad, but not fun either. I think the kids are competing to have the biggest injury. Ethan cut his leg (little) by the pool and Mika slipped and has some pretty impressive bruises on his leg and side.
Once we got back to Motueka Top 10 Holiday Park everyone was back into the pool. Have to say that these top 10 parks are great for the kids with pools and gamesrooms to keep them happy.
Dinner is on the go and we are enjoying not having to move on for two more nights. Loving the Moa dresses and the space in the Honda. Sponsers are a beautiful thing.
See you tomorrow...

more







Murchison to Motueka







Family fun. Very nice places to stay and sandflies aplenty

Sunday 28th November - Day 12

Had the nicest time at Riversong but have to say that between the rooster and the sandflies it was an early morning start. The kids wouldn't eat the free range eggs as they were tinged a little green in the shell. Insides all good but not what they were used to. Mika and I had a nice early morning walk through the town of Murchison and checked out the cafes and the horses.

On the road and we went to the Red Barn Animal Park cafe. It was pretty hot and again those sandflies were keen on making friends. We had a great coffee made by Natasha the owner and another by her best barista. The kids checked out the animals and Ruby was convinced that she had seen a moose, I believe it was a well adorned deer. They have great plans for the location which include sprucing up the area around the waterhole so visitors can use that too. On hearing the word waterhole the family grabbed bathers and with permission went to what is becoming our favourite interlude. Swimming in the rivers is a little chilly at times but beautiful and we are learning to change in record time while keeping our dignity in the open air.

We had been looking forward to catching up with my brother Pete and family, especially the newest member Flynn. So after arriving at the Motueka Top 10 and settling in in our very nice motel unit we gave them a call. Kids had a swim and we began the great washing mission. Whanau rescued us from domestic drudgery and we headed back to theirs for a bbq. Really lovely to spend time together as because we live on different islands it doesn't happen often. I really miss spending time with my big brother and family.
After too short a time and the kids all falling in love with Flynn, it was back to Motueka for the night.

27 November 2010

Saturday 27th November - Day 11

I heard whispers early in the morning and slept on. On awakening much later it was to find Matthew and I deserted by the kids. They had found themselves a movie in the early morning T.V room and so we had the luxury of chatting uninterrupted for the first time in eleven days. Working, managing kids and cafes, driving and enjoying the travels leaves little time for us to just be and it was a most welcome change. I think the midnight mission to the ablution block had taken its toll, between that and vivid dreams I needed the processing time to be back to me.
The intensity of moving from place to place, meeting lots of new people, being in close proximity to the family over an extended time frame all makes for rapid personal growth. For those reading from psychotherapy its like ET with changing scenery, the good bits of ET mostly.
Anyway post packing, at which we are now experts, we went into Hamner Springs proper and I demanded a coffee. It was already 11.30 and I wasn't prepared to wait to the next stop. Lots of protest from others who wanted treats but I had a selfish mother moment and it was good.
Climbing upward to Lewis Pass the scenery pulled me back into the travels of days gone by and the heat was one I haven't experienced for a long time. It is different from the north, more intense like the flavour of reduced apple juice.
We passed Maruia Springs that Ethan had visited before with his mum and on into Maruia itself. There we visited Reid's Store, another cafe that has a good reputation. Mark and Karen are the owners and they were very happy to tell their story, be included in the book, have a copy of the original book and take our money for lunch. The cafe is currently on the market.
It is really interesting to me the different attitudes and levels of hospitality we come across. We are staying in Murchison tonight at the Riversong Cottages. Jenny is our host and she is hospitality personified. A warm welcome pointing out the local swimming hole which was much needed in the heat of the day. On meeting Ruby she offered up a pony ride and when we came back from our swim she came through with that promise. The kids got to round up and then feed the free range chickens, collecting eggs that Jenny donated for breakfast tomorrow. To top it off she offered to look after the kids if Matthew and I wanted to have dinner out alone. We didn't take her up on her offer but it was much appreciated and revived my spirits after becoming disillusioned by my days cafe experience.
My life experience is such that generosity of self, as Jenny has shown us, leads to abundance. I wish it upon her and Melissa in buckets.
I spoke with my brother Pete and we are meeting him in Motueka tomorrow and joining the whole family for a bbq on monday night. Looking forward to that.
I am lying on my bed in my cottage with birds, river, horses and lovely gardens outside. I feel rested physically and in my soul. Love...love..love.dah-de-dah.

The thrill of travelling













We have been with the dolphins, hung a Moa, and had coffee deep in the bush. The photos tell it all